Tuesday, September 4, 2012

Turkiye (Turkey)


“MERHABA"

Aug. 13
Sadly but with some excitement and anticipation we departed Egypt after 2 months (less 10 days).  
Landing in the largest city in Turkey, Istanbul is no longer the capital but still the heartbeat of the Turkish spirit.  
Upon arrival and warned by the Aussies we paid $240 usd for our Turkey Visa’s…ouch!!  Getting to our accommodation was a challenge taking a train into the city where we switched to another train, which took us to a ferry that we boarded for Kadikoy.  Luckily we met a family from France who were going the same direction so we just followed them!  It was amazing how many Mosque's we passed.
The Aussies were waiting for us in the apartment we rented together and were on the balcony when they spotted us walking up the street with all our luggageJ
Although very small, our apartment was perfect.  The kids shared a room and all decided to sleep in the one room even though there was an extra bedroom.  It had 4 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, a teeny tiny kitchen and balcony with a tiny table and a couple chairs.  Not sure where we were supposed to eat but we managed.  The great thing about travelling with another family is sharing...... sharing accommodation costs, cooking the food, vehicle expenses and Blog writing.  My new friend Katherine is a talented writer and with her permission I have copied some of her Blog.  You will know it's her and not me by the Italics.

The only city in the world to span two continents, Europe and Asia, it is home to over 20 million people. We spent 10 days living on the Asian side and visited Europe by ferry. The city is a fabulous mix of culture and cuisine, easy to get around and a perfect introduction to Turkey. We were 8 people crammed into a four bedroom place with no living or dining room. A bit like a share house from uni days, we squeezed past each other and made do with limited appliances and kitchen utensils.

  Right below our balcony and across the street was the best bakery ever and we were blessed with the smell of fresh bread 24/7.  Also, we joined the locals in sending a basket down from our balcony to the bakery below and up came fresh bread.  How cool was that?!  

The week in Istanbul was fun but went super fast!   Very little English is spoken in Turkey so we’re feeling more and more like foreigners. 
 Billboards that cover entire buildings!

 Delmar and Lachie getting a kick start with a mudlike texture of Turkish Coffee!!

 Tianna enjoying apple tea

 Metro transit travels right through the busy streets of Istanbul

We took several ferry trips(transportation to various sections of the city) on the Sea of Marmara, past the Topkapi Palace and numerous mosque domes that line the shoreline.  We all squealed with delight at spotting a school of dolphins swimming and diving next to our ferry.  All the boats, ferries and cruise ships make for a very a congested maritime highway.  
The two impressive Bosphorus Bridges link the city and two continents.


Highlights of the week included celebrating Lachie’s 11th birthday at the park next to the Sea, where we got in trouble for running through a sprinkler! 

The Blue Mosque is a perfect example of Islamic architecture and artistry. The grand interior is decorated with 20,000 hand made ceramic tiles, stained glass windows and has massive iron chandeliers which hang from enormous chains. It was built in 1609 and is still used a place for prayer, despite the hoards of tourists. Every surface is heavily decorated and it was such a light filled, airy space - a perfect place to escape the heat and enjoy some serenity. The only downside was walking past the segregated section in the far corner reserved for the women. There was a carved wooden barricade which totally prevented them from viewing the mosque.


  
Men washing their feet prior to entry into the Mosque

  



The underground Basilica Cistern included huge stone statues of Medusa’s head upside down and her sister’s head sideways?! 


The Basilica Cistern was built in 1453 by the Romans as an underground water storage. Now it is a quiet and peaceful place, beautifully lit and tourists can listen to relaxation music and watch the thousands of carp which breed in the shallow water. There are over 336 columns and the I'm sure the Romans would get a bit of a surprise to see a cafe and a gift shop are now part of the place!



 The Grand Bazaar and Spice Market is quite simply a shoppers paradise! We purchased a ton of fresh Turkish Delight…mmmmm good!

Eating copious amounts of baklava and other unpronounceable Turkish sweets, succulent shwarmas and kebabs, fresh bread straight from the bakery across the road and enjoying many cups of Turkish tea, served in tiny tulip shaped glasses.

Tianna & I enjoyed a shopping day with Katherine, and our whole gang of 8 took a couple day trips across the Bosphorus straight on ferries that are used just like our city buses back home.  The first boat trip was to Akagiz, a picturesque seaside village where the restaurant owners competed for our business.  After lunch and a quick dip in the sea we hiked to the Castle at the top of a super steep hill.  

We then hiked up to a castle for a birds eye view of the Black Sea (which was a deep blue and not black).
The view of where the Sea of Maramar meets the Black Sea was magnificent but an even better site was watching Tianna and Darcy bond while sitting on the huge walls with the wind blowing through their hair.We all cooled off with a swim near the Black Sea prior to the Ferry ride back home.
Aug.19
All aboard another ferry with hundreds of other tourists and locals we sailed an hour and a half to the Buyukada Island which we were hoping would be a nice quiet place to swim.  There was no shortage of people or horse and buggies and crazy boys riding bikes but we chose to walk instead.  Somehow between stopping to buy bread and bits for lunch we lost JC and didn't see him again until it was time to leave the island despite putting signs on posts to direct him to the beach we chose to swim at.  Although there was no negotiating on the price to enter the beach area we reluctantly paid it and the kids braved the cold water while Katherine and I found a sheltered pool to chill in.
Finding JC back at the ferry terminals was a relief for all of us but especially for him since he had no water, food or money all day!  Just like I suspected he stopped to talk to someone and didn’t see which direction we walked.
In the evening we completed our final packing and were off......picture this.....2 families, 8 people, 19 packs and bags, walking down a busy street to the shuttle pick up spot, we had lots of eyes on us and surely thoughts of "those people are crazy"
After a brief drive through Istanbul at night we waited in a circle around all our luggage waiting for our bus.  When it arrived everyone was very excited to see that each seat had its own TV screen but the excitement was short lived since every channel including the movies were in Turkish.  The service on the bus was the best we've had, with ice cream, snacks, water and other drinks offered free of charge.

We hadn't driven long when the bus boarded a ferry which sailed for about an hour and for some reason we arrived in Izmir 3 hours ahead of schedule....at 5:00 am!!!  So tiredly we waited, bought one cup of expensive tea, got in trouble for Landon playing his guitar and had an "Indian Embassy moment" in the Internet cafe.  Landon earned 4.25TL (turkish lira) playing his guitar outside of the bus station.  Finally, 4 hours later our van arrived but what's this...it only has 7 seats, looked like it belonged to someones cousin and was clearly not the 9 seater we booked online?!?  Discussing details with someone who speaks very little English was a challenge but at last we came to an agreement to take it for one day only and all piled in to drive the 1.5hrs. to Ozdere.  Ozdere was supposed to be a village by the sea but in fact, it's an overcrowded popular holiday mecca. The beach was so crowded that when we went for a swim, we couldn't find where we had left our towels!  

Our home for the next 5 days was a wonderful little house close to the beach with a pool right across the street which belonged to a hotel.  Swimming in the Algean Sea was refreshing (felt 'cool' for the Canadians and 'cold' for the Aussies) and despite all the people the water was surprisingly clear.  Even though way too many people to share the beach with we enjoyed playing in the water and the sand.  On the first day Landon & Tianna made friends with a local girl and played with her for hours despite the language barrier, play is definitely a universal language.  Our two families claimed "The Time(Dirty Bit)" as our theme song and had fun lip syncing and dancing to it in our living room complete with us ladies in dead sea mud masks while the neighbours next door were either entertained or shocked we're not sure which.
Day trips from Ozdere included Seven Sleepers, unimpressive, Church of the Virgin Mary which was voted down by our family of 8 and then to the ancient ruins of Ephesus which turned out to be a hit despite how hot it was.  There was so much to see that we persevered the scorching temperature and had a great time walking through the ancient ruins.  The trouble with being a tourist is all the tourists you encounter especially the dreaded tour groups.  Shockingly Katherine was hushed by a tour group leader!!

    wandered through another roman theatre, crumbling columns and headless statues. But, there were some magnificent buildings and carvings to be seen  
 
  We ended the day at sunset with Turkish pizza's on a somewhat quieter beach with olive trees on the shoreline and where the kids took turns casting the fishing rod and exploring the rocky cliffs along the shore.








The next day we drove more than 3 hours east to Pamukkale, a sight unlike anything we've seen before!!   


The shallow pools are supported by stalactites of white and filled with warm, calcium rich mineral waters.  Above all the pools at the top of the hill is the ruined city of Hierapolis.  It was a cure centre founded about 190 BC by Enmenes II, King of Pergamum.  Just when you think you've seen it all....along comes Pamukkale! One of the most surreal places we have seen, it is a series of aqua blue swimming pools and hot springs set amongst a startling white mineral mountain. The whole place looks like a gigantic theme park, but it is actually totally natural. We swam and paddled and marveled at the uniqueness of the place and the kids loved playing in the squishy, chalky white mud. The place was so crowded, but there are so many pools that everyone can find their own piece of marshmallow to hang about in!

Here is how each of us described the experience:
Darcy - I liked in the water the slime and weird white mud
Tianna - All the white rock looked like sugar, marshmallows, or vanilla ice cream and each pool was a different temperature.
Lachlan - Amazing how white it was with all the normal countryside around it
Katherine - I couldn't stop giggling, it looked so artificial and the pictures we saw couldn’t compare to being here
Shelley - I loved the soft mud squishing between my toes and rubbing it over our bodies and feeling the coolness of the water on such a hot day
Landon - Only one word to describe it......AWESOME
JC - is was like a constant mind game since the environment looked like we were in the snow but in contrast was the heat, brilliant colors, the light, blue sky and green grass landscape that surrounded us.  It was a great example of God's sense of humour.
Delmar - an amazing experience swimming amongst cave like structures while out in the open.

Laying in the water, playing in the mud and standing next to the smooth, white washed walls while being showered with the mineral water was spectacular and the whole experience has quickly moved itself up into the top 10 list of remarkable moments of our trip.  Not wanting to leave but feeling a bit parched we hit the grocery store for a typical dinner on the road....yoghurt, crackers dipped in peanut butter, lemonade, and sparkling juice.  Tianna and Darcy were just so cute sitting together and falling asleep using each other for a pillow!

Aug.25
Getting a family of 8 packed up and ready to go can be done and once again we boarded the van for the long drive to Canakkale which became even longer because the GPS took us an hour further than we were suppose to go and we had to turn around, stop and ask for directions several times.  We drove back to a small village with no street signs, very vague directions and a house number?!  We arrived in the little village of Pasakoy (population 430 and 99% muslim) and found our house with the help of a local lady who hopped into our van with us.  Turgay met us and gave us the tour of his remarkable stone house he built himself.  The kids were exited and quickly claimed their beds and were off to see the cows and explore the village.  There is a tiny village surrounded by fields and paddocks, high on a hill overlooking the Agean Sea. Home to just over 400 people, it is a picture perfect place that rarely sees westerners.  The people are curious and simple, and we were welcomed with open arms during our time there. The houses are made of stone, there are hardly any vehicles and the men spend their day sipping tea in the town square whilst the women gossip in the doorways. The children play care free and they were very keen to make friends with the 'tourists in town'.

Our host cooked us a delicious Turkish meal of bulgur rice and sauce….. spicy!!!!!  JC and I walked to the town square, saw a colt with no ropes or lead following his owners horse, we met some local men(well sort of, no English of course)and enjoyed Turkish tea in small tulip shaped glass tea cups while watching the sun set over the hills. 
Landon entertaining some local girls on our door step
The local ladies & I sharing a moment
  
Sipping on wine and savoring some delicious chocolate both families ended the day together on the roof top patio with a breathtaking view of the castle in Assos, and the Agean Sea with some Greek islands in the distance.  Waking to the crow of many roosters the next day the kids were up very early first to see the cows being milked, bringing some home for us to enjoy, and then kids just being kids exploring and building forts.  It reminded me of when we were growing up although they can’t seem to be engaged all day like we did when we were their age,  too many electronics at their disposal “I reckon”!  In Turgay's house we took turns experiencing a Turkish Bath, a big marble basin in the corner of the bathroom filled with water and a smaller copper bowl used to pour water on yourself…get wet, lather, rinse…very water conservative.  Today we’ve been invited to take part in a village celebration for one of the young boys that was recently circumcised.  A street was closed off and turned into a banquet hall where we were treated to the most delicious, authentic food. Chickpeas in sauce, a dish similar to porridge with chicken broth cooked over night in a huge pot, salad, beef, rice and a yummy dessert of softened sugared raisins and sweet groundnuts.  After the feast Turgay guided us to an all-stone beach on the Agean Sea.  The water was cold but refreshing and so clear you can see to the bottom even in the deep water.    
The kids were running, jumping and diving off the wharf, while the Aussie and Canadian parents enjoyed a cold beer or two.  Back just in time to change our clothes and we were on our way to the street for our very first circumcision party!!  Skipping rope with all the local kids was fun, as was watching Landon play his guitar while the little ones looked on.  Another wonderfully delicious meal, same as lunch, before the party continued in the school courtyard.  We were lucky to be invited to the town's celebration......a circumcision party.....yep, that's right, we celebrated a 14yr old boys journey into manhood! (thankfully the operation took place a few weeks prior, so we were spared any unpleasant surprises). There was a gigantic feast, followed by an evening of dancing. The entire town turned out in their finest clothes and we were swept onto the dance floor for hours of Turkish dancing.

I was surprised to hear Careless Whisper by Wam playing as we arrived and then throughout the evening Barbie Girl 3 times!!  Other than those 2 english songs the rest of the evening was all very traditional.  The "circumcision boy" was dressed like a Prince and was honoured throughout the evening.  The girls in their fancy dresses with their hair professionally styled wouldn’t leave Tianna alone and soon we were dancing to the traditional music and style, in a circle all going one direction, trying to keep in step.  Lachie and Landon met some cute girls but I think the language barrier was a challenge for them.
The sounds in the village are so different from Istanbul and Ozdere and in the middle of the night when I couldn’t sleep I was treated to an orchestra of a donkey, cows, dog barking, birds, crickets, roosters, the call to prayer of course and saw 7 shooting stars, several satellites and even the big dipper was visible from here.
Not everyone was interested in seeing the Temple of Athena situated between our village and the beach but Katherine, Delmar and I were so we toured while the rest of the Zachest/Colvin clan went to swim.  


 Funny though, Delmar made a very quick exit once we were done and he heard the word “shopping”.  Just as well since Katherine and I took our time stopping at every stall that lined the street heading down from the temple in Assos.   
 Katherine buying just one more necklace....as you do!!!
We enjoyed spending all our money and just when we thought we’d have to leave we found an ATM machine!!  We began the 2km walk down the hill to the beach and our families but were quickly picked up and driven there instead.  In the evening we had arranged for a homemade birthday cake for Tianna to be delivered to the house.  It was huge and very delicious but it arrived at 10pm...oh well the kids and especially Tianna enjoyed celebrating an early birthday with her extended family.  The rest of our time in the village was spent sitting on the terrace looking out at the view, listening to cows and the call to prayer, visiting the town centre for some tea and heading down to the sea side village of Assos where we jumped off the pier into the cold waters of the Agean. Lazing on sun lounges, ordering beers, watching the kids dive off the pier and soaking up the views, we can't imagine that we ever have to come home. We hope this place remains hidden from the rest of the world and well off the tourist trail forever. A perfect secret Turkish hideaway!
The next day we were on a mission to see the historical site of Troy (TROIA).  
Directed to take the scenic route along the seashore we drove for a long while, came to some ruins recently discovered and being excavated by some university students but still no Troy so we drove some more and then some more, missed the turn off twice, turned around and finally 4 hours later we arrived!!  

Pretty cool but not worth quite as much as our anticipation of it. 
The morning we parted ways was full of tears and a very difficult farewell for all of us, especially for Katherine and I who’ve become really close!!  We're so happy that we were able to share Turkey with their family and spend as much time as we did.  I think it was pretty cool that we did the big city, beach life, and village stay together.  Their family is off to India and we are heading to Greece.

Our family drove our rental van back to Izmir to pick up our computer getting fixed and also to collect some money the first rental car company owed us!!  Stressful times though driving through a big city during rush hour traffic and just to ensure the stress level remained high we ran out of gas on our way to the ferry in Cesme!!  God came through for us though as JC hitched a ride into town and back with enough diesel to get us the final 20 km’s and to the ferry with a few minutes to spare. 


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