Greece

"YIA SAS"

 Our entry into Greece via ferry was at the island of Chios where we had to kill 4 hours while waiting for our night ferry, scheduled to leave at 12:40am.  Poor Tianna was so tired she fell asleep with her head on a table in a coffee shop while we were waiting for the ferry.  VIP seating on the ferry was a good call, with reclining seats but why the bright florescent lights remained on all night was a mystery to me?!?

 It's all Greek to us?!?!?!?

Arriving in Athens at 6:30am after very little sleep was a challenge but we managed quite well.  A Taxi ride to the bus station where we missed the bus to Kefalonia Island by about 15 minutes turned out to be a blessing since we had until 1:45pm before the next bus was leaving.  With this time we decided a tour of the city of Athens was an option and quickly planned it.  We hopped onto one of the open-air double decker buses that took us to all the must see sights in Athens.  We were very happy to see the ruins in various states of reconstruction from the comforts of the bus rather than walking and trying to share the moment with hundreds of other tourists.  It really felt like Athens was just another big city, amazing history yes, but a big city just the same.
We even decided that coming back to Athens prior to leaving won’t be necessary now.

The bus ride through the city and onto another ferry was uneventful but when we arrived in Poros, the port on Kefalonia Island the bus driver called a taxi for us.  When he arrived we were shocked at how rude he was and would not even consider lowering his 35Euro fee (for a 10-15min. drive) so we said no thanks!  We walked to a nearby store to buy some groceries and get supper to go, the next taxi driver was just as grumpy but at least willing to come down 10 Euro.  Not a great welcome to this island but we’re hopeful things will improve.   

The further we get into Europe the more rude people we encounter.  Yes, there are some very nice people here but unlike Africa where everyone was friendly sometimes it’s hard to even get a smile from people we pass.  My observation is that the more privileges and possessions people have the less appreciative, gracious and friendly they are.  Unfortunately I feel many Europeans, Americans and Canadians fall into this category.  Also, it seems like everyone here smokes and it doesn’t matter where we are, in buildings, on ferries, in stores, taxis, restaurants, beaches, practically everywhere…gross!

Rugged, mountainous and blessed with some of the most dramatic scenery in the region and is also the largest Ionian island.  
Dreams, the studio we’ve rented for two weeks is only 150m from Katelios Beach and a 25 min. walk to the Turtle project we are helping out with.


On our second day here we ventured on a family outing which involved swimming in the Mediterranean, into a cave then along the deserted shoreline to a small private beach.  Lying on the tiny pebble beach, selecting our favourites, in the sun with the waves lapping onto us was so soothing and peaceful.

 Landon was once again in heaven on the second and third day since we rented a motorized scooter he drove on his own for 2 full days!

Our first day volunteering with the Save The Turtle project began at dawn, up before the sun rose we made our way to Mounda Beach where we met 2 young ladies Karen from Ireland and Catalina from Ontario who explained what they were doing and why.
We went back at 4:00 to watch as they attempted to excavate a turtle nest but after 1 hour and 5 of them digging they found nothing which at that point decided having more help would be okay (they were initially reluctant since we’re not trained).  

With 6 more volunteers helping to dig it was decided that the measurements of where the nest was located must be wrong.  We filled in the huge holes we dug before calling it a day.

As a reward for all our digging Tianna and I got some ice cream……. yummmmm!!!!!!!

We enjoyed eating our tasty treat while walking back along the beach and rocky hillside back to our studio in Katelios discussing our favourite ice cream flavours and why, as you do with a 10 year old!!

The next day we had a down day(nothing that interesting) and then in the evening at 10:00pm we went to the turtle station to see a presentation about the turtles and what the volunteer’s are doing to help save them from extinction.  See Tianna and Landon's page on Loggerhead Turtles.
Our second turtle nest excavation was a success after only about 15 min. of digging!  

 

85 shells were discovered, of which 62 were hatched and 13 were found unfertilized and 2 baby turtles died while in their shell.

Weeks leading up to Tianna’s birthday were hints and reminders about how long it would be until she turned 10.  The last few days went something like this “tomorrow I can say my birthday is tomorrow” etc.  extremely excited and why wouldn’t she be……we are celebrating her birthday in Greece with Turtles!!

One evening after dinner we all headed to the beach to watch the sun set and play cards.  While lying on the sun beds we only had one blanket and since everyone was keen on sleeping on the beach the kids went back to get more blankets and pillows.  
Star gazing and being witness to all the shooting stars was an added bonus to the soothing sound of the waves crashing into shore only a few feet away.  

Waking to the sun rising over the hillside was a vision we will never forget.

On Tianna’s last day of being nine we took the bus into Poros where we made our way to a platform jetting out from the mountain side and 8 – 10 metres above the sea.

 

It was here that our family had hours of frightening enjoyment by jumping into the roaring sea below.  

 

 It was either bravery or insanity that kept us leaping off that platform all afternoon.

Landon helped his mom return to shore over the many rocks and powerful waves!!


FINALLY….Tianna turned 10 and woke to find all her presents on the kitchen table (even gift wrapped thanks to Katherine for the paper!) 

She got 2 necklaces, a bracelet, toe ring, earrings and a pretty box to put all her jewelry into.  Next was a special breakfast at a seaside restaurant under an umbrella and a huge palm tree.  

She and Landon played a game of pool, some internet (FB) time and swam in the sea, then ice cream of course for a mid-afternoon snack!  In the evening we got pretty (that means showered and washed our hair) and went out for an exquisite dinner at Jerry’s.  To end the perfect double-digit birthday Tianna chose for us all to sleep on the beach again with even more blankets than last time. 

 

 

The next day we got a car….yeah!!!  In one day we drove around the entire island stopping in Poros for more jumping then to Sami, a port on the east side of the island. Not far from Sami is a natural phenomenon called Melissani Cave where the only option to see the lake is by tour boat, so we conformed and purchased our tickets, sadly swimming was prohibited.

The short, narrow tunnel led us to the underground lake opening to a surreal site of magnificent colors of the lake with the sun’s reflection overhead.  I wish I could say it was perfect but we are in Europe and what do European’s like to do the most?  Smoke!  We were shocked to see all the Tour Boat Guides smoking and then tossing their butts into the crystal aqua blue waters of the lake.  If that wasn’t bad enough the smell from the smoke lingered, we were in a cave after-all, this left a haze we had to boat through, it was sickening.  I had to try really hard to enjoy the moment being in a cave at least 30,000 years old with stalactites dated at around 20,000 years.  The roof of the cave collapsed during the 1953 earthquake, providing a light that turns the water brilliant turquoise.  
From here we drove to Assos, the Peninsula with the Venetian Fortress, 
which we saw from the bay below since we decided to snorkel instead of hiking the 1.8km to the top of the hill and the monument.  Lot’s of fish to see but unfortunately a fair amount of garbage on the beach and submerged in the water.  

Driving to Fiskardho, the most Northerly point of Kefalonia Island, wasn’t anything special other than being at the tip of the island, although the yachts in the beautiful harbour did look impressive.  Because we hadn’t swam nearly enough today we made our way to another beach on a scary steep descending road, having to avoid the many mountain goats along the way.  

Myrtos Beach boasts as the most beautiful and photographed beach on the island and from high up on the road the stunning turquoise scenery can be seen for miles.  

The beach itself consists of small white pebbles, transparent water with extremely deep waters at only 2 metres from the shore.  Swimming in this clear turquoise water was amazzazing (Landon’s new word)!!

We more than enjoyed our authentic greek meal at the top of the hill especially since there were left overs!  Greek pizza, mousaka, greek salad, spaghetti bolognaise,  and bruschetta. Mmmmm…good

The whole point of staying later on the west side of the island was to watch the sunset.  But because of the low cloud cover over the mountains in the west it set earlier and we were eating dinner so just missed it but imagined it was spectacular.  Home late, tired but happy for such a full day.

Back touring early the very next morning we were off to Argostoli, the capital city which also happens to be the home of 3 very large loggerhead turtles who come daily to feed from the scraps off the fishermen’s boats in the harbour.

It also provides a perfect place for tourists to see these magical reptiles.  They mesmerized us as they swam by posing for our many pictures and video. 

Finding a laundromat has proven to be an impossible task…..one does not exist on this island.  Since we wouldn’t be doing laundry after all we left Argostoli once we purchased a charm for Tianna and a sticker for Landon’s guitar case.  

We drove to the Saint George castle that regrettably was a huge disappointment since you could only see the outside wall, the entrance closed by an iron gate.  But what a view!!!
  

Once again Landon enjoyed another brief driving lesson in the parking lot.    

 Just past the Monastery of Aghios Gerasimos(16 century) 
dedicated to the islands patron saint is the Robola winery which we naturally stopped for a taste testing. 
  Not sure if it was the wine but we couldn't read the signs afterwards?!?
Not the easiest beach to find we ended our day at Lourdata, swimming and playing in the big waves.

The Colvin girls are very resourceful and began their full laundry service once back at our studio apartment.  
This was a first though, using a kiddie pool for the wash cycle, a bucket for the rinse cycle and Landon & JC’s muscles for the ‘twist’ cycle & the sun of course for drying…….hey it worked!!

Nice chatting with a young couple from England, Hailey and Brindon in our courtyard.  Happily we have met some really nice couples, mostly from the UK.  And JC figures that the Greeks don’t intend to be rude it’s just the way they speak which sounds like they are shouting.  We are liking the island more and more each day and also meeting friendly Europeans.

After laundry and dinner it was time to pack up and head to the other beach to sleep next to the turtle nests.  An evening stroll didn’t produce anything so once again under the stars we settled into our sun chair beds for the night.  I woke first, the moon was still up but I walked to the point anyway looking for tracks….nothing.  Just as the sun was beginning to glow behind the hill we got up…..oh yeah while we were laying there a dog run up to us but not to say Hi, he lifted his leg and peed on the corner of Landon’s chair wetting his sleeping bag…..bad doggie!!!!

The closest nest to us had one track leading to the sea and a nest further down the beach appeared to have 9 tracks leading from it but very sadly we found 2 dead only inches from the nest.  

Back at the first nest we waited for the official volunteer to show him our find and when he arrived we noticed another track coming from the nest.  OMGosh there he was…..making his way to the sea but the sun has risen and he was beginning to dry out.  With the help of Tianna who shaded his way and the volunteer pouring water on his head he finally made it and freely swam away.  
It was sooooo cool.  We named him Allen, after the Englishman at our apartments who walks this way after a few drinks.  

Our plans to take a ferry to the adjacent island, Ithaca were scrapped and instead left Sami on a narrow road leading to Antisamos(Andisamis), an elliptic, white pebbled beach with two shades of blue on the shoreline and lots of fish to look at with our masks.  It is surrounded by picturesque mountain slopes and the coast of Antisamos was featured in the movie ‘Captain Corelli’s Mandolin’ which we will have to find when we return home.  It was at this beach where JC was asked to take a picture of a lady and her boyfriend, nothing unusual about that except that she was topless!  We are finding it interesting that we just came from a country where women show no skin at all (in Egypt) to a country where going topless is the norm and full on nudity in some cases (even one man).

 

The next morning our neighbors Hailey and Brinden asked to join us on our Turtle Hatchling Search so at 6:00am we all piled into our rental and drove to the beach.  Donned with our walkie talkies to keep in touch, the girls teamed up and found a single track from the north end nest but nothing more.  Further down the beach there were tracks everywhere and going in every direction.  These hatchlings were most certainly very confused as they were attracted to the lights from the hotel and the road.  Tianna found one on the road and quickly saved him from certain death, we named him Forrest Gump since his tracks went on forever with no purpose and in every direction.

     Landon saved one which had flipped onto his back and couldn’t correct himself, he named him Jughead, and 2 more near the road Squirt and Crush were also saved by our team of Canadians and Brits.  Back at the nest we noticed another track going in crazy circles and heading the wrong direction, we followed the tracks until it was obvious the poor thing had fallen into a ditch full of pieces of wood.  We looked and looked when suddenly I spotted him on the woodpile only a couple feet away.  He wasn’t moving.  

Unexpectedly, as if he sensed our presence, gave us a little wave.  With lightning speed Landon scooped up that little turtle and was sprinting with him towards the sea setting him down on the shoreline where we did a quick assessment.  He had a gash on his head across his left eye but otherwise seemed to be okay.
  A moment we will never forget, saving “Scarface” and setting him free in the ocean watching him swim away was so fulfilling.  What a day!!!   And it was only 7:30am!!!

After spending the rest of the morning packing to leave the next day we drove across the island once more to the 150 million year old Dogarati Caves. 
It has rare red stalactites and stalagmites as well as exceptional acoustics in the centre of the cave.  The kids had a swim in the pool next door while JC & I went online, always happy when we find wifi especially when it's free.

Our final moments at Katelios were made so memorable with another early morning visit to the Turtle Nesting beach. 
Tianna & I were privileged to witness a hatchling emerging from the comforts of her nest.  The whole process took only about 15 min. while we patiently waited sitting on the sand nearby.
Once out of the nest, Ethel, named after Nana, was so smart and strong she practically ran to the ocean in a near perfect straight line.  When she reached the water of the Mediterranean it took her no time at all to master the waves and swim happily away.  We shouted “God Bless Nana” and gave each other a hug and a high five! 

The God moment here of course being the fact that had we booked the earlier ferry from Argostoli, which was our original plan, we would have missed the greatest moment of the 2 weeks we spent in Greece.  Instead we happily walked the length of the beach over the rocks and back to our apartment for final clean up and packing before taking the local bus to meet up with JC in Landon at Poros.  
Of course before boarding the bus/ferry for Athens we had lunch on the beach and the kids and JC had to make several more jumps at our favourite spot.  



Arriving late to our hotel there was no time to enjoy Athens since we had to be at the airport by 4:00am for our 6:00 flight the next day.