South Africa

"GOEIE DAG"

30 hours of travelling, 3 countries, 2 continents and 3 airplanes later we arrived in Cape Town, South Africa and discovered a pot of gold at the end of the rainbow.  The home provided for us is not only spacious but so incredibly charming!!  The kids ran through the house ewwwing and aaaahhhhing over this and that and were super excited to have their own bedrooms.  After only 10 minutes from arriving they had both emptied their packs into the closets and had ‘their’ rooms set up!  

 This is adorable Noah!!

 

The house is situated on an inlet called the marina, there is a paddleboat however we’ve been too busy or it’s been too windy to use just yet.  South Africa’s Mother City, Cape Town seems nice but coming into winter it is much cooler than we expected.  Set against the backdrop of iconic Table mountain and home to a diverse group of inhabitants from different cultures and backgrounds.  
Our hosts Jessica, Jason and their adorable 2 year old son Noah are so nice, friendly and accommodating.  Jessica even bought us some food to have when we first arrived.  After a very long sleep the first night (12hrs. for the kids, 13hrs. for me) we went with Jason & Jessica for some authentic fish & chips next to the ocean.  Oh and included was a bag of hamburger buns?!

Up early Sunday morning for church felt very early for all of us since it was hard getting to sleep the previous night as we are still adjusting to the time change.  We are 5 hours ahead of Peru and 7 hours ahead of home here.

Jason and Jessica are Leaders with the Youth Ministry at their church and we so enjoyed the service held in a huge Theatre.  With mostly black members the energy was contagious, they love God with all their heart and the enthusiasm was awesome to see.  A man walking with a cane came to the stage where he and his daughter shared their testimony about a recent attack on the beach.  They were robbed and the dad was stabbed in the leg by the perpetrator.  The daughter spoke about how she felt our Lords power with her during the entire awful event.  He gave her the strength she needed to divert the attention of the attacker off her dad who was laying on the ground at this point, by shouting at him showing her phone etc.  He took what she had but miraculously did not hurt her!!! 

After church Jessica cooked a fabulous African meal of meat stew (Beef & Ostrich), Pap (corn meal stiff porridge with tomatoe onion gravy), mashed pumpkin, creamed spinach, chakalakah(onion, green pepper, grated carrot, curry, cayenne pepper, beans, and milk tart for desert!  Their friends Hapiloe & Kutlwano from Youth Ministry joined us!

JC & Tianna met Basil on the flight from Johannesburg to Cape Town and he came to pick us up in the afternoon.  We went to his house for tea and treats before attending an evening service at his church.

Rainy Monday meant a day to do nothing, a nice change from our usual hectic get up and go routine.  Jessica and Noah came for a visit and we enjoyed learning about the area through Jessica’s perspective.

Driving through the national park of Cape Point was interesting as we saw where the Indian and Atlantic oceans meet as well as beautiful landscape and our first interaction with Baboons.  After seeing warning signs about how dangerous they are we first spotted them on the side of the road.  With Jessica’s warning to keep our windows shut we took photo’s from the safety of our vehicle.
      
A bit of a hike up to the lighthouse on Cape Point was easy for the Colvin Crew in our trained bodies since hiking sea level is much easier than the 12000 feet we had adjusted to.  A gorgeous scenic drive on a cliff next to the ocean where part of the road was cut into the mountain which meant driving under the rock overhang.

I won’t even attempt to explain the racial differences in South Africa but both Jessica and Basil explained how whites, blacks and colored differ.  Today is a national holiday named workers day!  South Africa has an interesting albeit tension filled past and everything we talked about became a lesson in history.  People of interest were Nelson Mandela of course and his crazy wife, their current president and all of his wives and the details surrounding South Africa’s independence.  Although the danger is real here we never saw or felt threatened in any way.

In the evening we were invited to Basil’s for our first Braai which means BBQ!!  His friend Daniel cooked all the meat, ribs, chicken, sausage, and pork chops!  We also enjoyed an array of salads and desert of two types of chocolate cakeJ  His friends Jean & Isaac, Alida & Danny, Francisca & Averell and his brother Desmond & Jenny were all so wonderful and we thought it was funny that they gave Basil a hard time about driving a Mercedes Benz and when they left we noticed that they all drive a Mercedes Benz!! They sang happy birthday to JC and prayed for us.  The evening ended with a Colvin Kids piano recital and Basil demonstrating his exceptional talent as a concert pianist disguised as the head of a university physics department.

   

JC 42^nd Birthday had moments of pleasure mixed with moments of pure frustration.  Having decided that we would prefer to stay in Cape Town for a few more days rather than drive to Durban 1500 km’s away became a nightmare as we tried to find a way to do this.  Our ‘travel agent’ was going to charge us over $900 to make this domestic flight change.  This being the second time we had a flight change request and both times disappointed with their customer service.  Because of this we’ve decided the rest of our trip will be self booked, an easy task when you have access to the internet.  Long story short, request to change flight refused, no campervans available to rent, bus would be very long, boring & uncomfortable, and flying too expensive left us only one option left…we rented a car!

Back to the birthday boy….JC met up with Andre, a friend of Jason’s, and the two of them went to the South African Sports Training Institute where they were given a tour of the National Rugby Facility.  The highlight being hoisting the World Cup over his head.  

 

While on the tour of the facility JC noticed that the Rugby, Cricket fields and national training centre was right across the street from South Africa’s number one brewery…..talk about strategic planning!!!!  The women’s Rugby manager declared that the Canadian Women’s Rugby team is the best and most feared in the world but her team is prepared to beat them in the upcoming Women’s World Rugby Cup in Europe.

In the afternoon we were blessed to take part in after school activities with the Garden Village Primary in Maitland.  A school with children from the districts and where Jason works once a week helping the students with their studies.  Here we were greeted like movie stars with a swarm of children around our vehicle.  The attraction was immediate, them to us and us to them.  After playing some race type games in the schoolyard we moved in doors for more play time.  Bonding with these children was so easy and playing with them so fun!!  2 hours went by so fast and there were lots of hugs, “I love you’s”, and “Bless You’s” upon leaving.  I’ve promised to be pen pals with three 5^th grade girls Bongisa, Emihle and Kulthum. 

 

JC cooked pasta for his Birthday which was shared with Jessica & Jason while little Noah slept.  Another late night of “too hard to say good-bye” moments meant leaving later than planned the next day but we’re off to Durban in our rented car.

Just one of many 'Shanty Towns' we drove past

Once out of Cape Town the rain stopped and we welcomed the sun warming our way to Durban.  On day one we drove as far as Jeffrey’s Bay and along the way saw sheep, ostrich, forests, dairy cattle farms, homes built with metal sheets in the townships (districts), beaches, quaint cities, a forest fire, olive & aloe plantations, vast openness and a gorgeous sun set behind us.

Driving on the LEFT side of the road!!!

 Dolphin View guesthouse was a huge house divided into 4 suites plus the owners living quarters.  Very unique with an indoor swimming pool and luxury rooms, our suite had a loft where the kids slept.

After a yummy breakfast we were off to our very first African Safari at Addo Elephant National Park.  Our self guided tour took about 3.5hrs. and during this time were entertained by a variety of African animals such as Black-backed Jackal, Ostrich, Warthog, Bush-buck, Buffalo, Eland, Kudu, Flight-less Dung beetle, Black-headed Heron, a Leopard Tortoise and our personal favourites’ Elephant’s and Zebra’s!!!  But somehow the Rhino & Lions eluded us?!?

 

Back on the highway heading North on the East Coast with the Indian Ocean to our right JC was driving but still managed to spot an Elephant and 2 Giraffe in the distance......only in Africa!!!
We drove another 1/3 of the way but after trying at least a dozen B&B's and Guesthouse in a really nice neighborhood with no vacancy we found one that had room but do you think we could find it?!?!?  the crazy thing was that it was in the same area as all the rest and was recommended to us by one of them and even with the lady on the phone trying to give us directions we still couldn't locate it (she was very hard to understand!).  The streets had no names so we were trying to use landmarks to tell her where we were.....anyway long story short and about a half hour driving up and down the same roads we gave up.  That was when we had a crazy idea that worked out beautifully.  I wasn't tired at all and told JC I would drive us to Durban, Landon quickly volunteered to keep me awake (he lasted until 12:22) but I found out later it was because he knew I would buy him hot chocolate, that kid will do anything for sugar!!  JC & Tianna slept and we drove for a few more hours and then when it got really foggy where I could hardly see decided that would be a good time to pull over and get some rest.  We 'slept' for about 3 hours then were on the road again.  We made it to Durban by 6:30am which meant having the entire day there.  The best part was finding the accomodation we did and again ironically it was the first place we checked.  

It is beautiful and right on the beach so the kids and JC went boogie boarding and surfing and I got to finish the book I borrowed from Jessica.  Anyway the owner was really nice and gave us a good deal and so we just spent both nights budget on one night but it was well worth it.  It was such a God Moment.

HAPPY TO GET LANDON'S GUITAR BACK.....LOST FROM BRAZIL TO SOUTH AFRICA!!!

Who says airports are boring?!?!

Final thoughts on Peru

Happily our family toured Peru for a month and a half when we had originally only planned to stay for just over 2 weeks!  I guess WWOOFing in Brazil was not God’s will but staying longer in Peru was.  One of our goals is to establish relationships with the people, not just be a ‘tourist’ and I’m happy to report we did just that.  The experiences and the people we met are unforgettable.  We cannot express our gratitude enough for all the families we stayed with.  We are forever grateful to families of the Cordova’s, Elias, Violeta, Dennis & Ruth, Ramiro & Vanessa, and Rina & Ronal and look forward to their visiting us in Canada when we return!!

The food was great and although we’ll pass on chicken, rice and potatoes for a while we enjoyed every meal we ate.  The drivers are crazy….you’d have to be a little crazy to drive in the streets of Lima, Arequipa, and Cuzco!!  We were amazed that after all that time and all the horns beeping we never witnessed one accident!

We also found it interesting that although English-speaking Peruvians was rare we heard English music all the time.  And usually old hits from the 70’s and 80’s…..I liked it!!  Another compliment is the effort the people of Peru make in regards to communicating with us in English.  With our limited Spanish and their willingness and patience we were usually successful and had many laughs too!  The cost of food, taxi’s, accommodation, and goods we bought and the tours were all reasonably priced.  And I loved the fact that their souvenirs are hand-made in Peru not factory produced in China!!  Despite the warnings about Peru being dangerous we always felt safe, in fact with all the kisses on the cheek the feeling we had was nothing but welcomed!!  All in all we give Peru a thumbs up, in particular all the friendly people.

Puno, Peru (elevation 12,000 ft.)

Puno and the Islands of Lake Titicaca

Well we are becoming very familiar with night buses, I even slept a little this time.  Arriving at 5:00am in Puno which sits on the northern shores of Lake Titicaca and surrounded by the Andes Mountains we were met by Ronal, the Olimpo Hotel owner.  The hospitality of the Peruvian's is remarkable, not only did he allow us into our room this early in the morning, he also brought us Coca Tea to drink. (This is the drink that assists with the effects of the elevation)  After resting for awhile we ventured out into the streets of Puno.  Busy, noisy, & crowded but better than some we've experienced.  I haven't decided whether Peru drivers are the worst because of all the close calls or the best because of all the close calls?!?

 the view from the roof of our hotel in Puno which borders on Lake Titicaca

Of course we made our way to the Plaza (every city big or small has a Plaza in Peru).   A lot more walking then rested in our hotel room watching TV for the first time in two and a half months.  After dinner JC attended his 3rd Rotary meeting.

                              

mostly all the women wear their hair with the traditional, long braids

The second day we were picked up by Rina's brother, sister in law and nephew to be driven out of the city along the shores of Lake Titicaca and passed little mud-brick villages until we stopped at a small community where we walked around and got close to an Alpaca.

 Rina & her family, our tour guides 

 sooooooo many potatoes

eggs are never refrigerated

     wearing the same 'rubber tire' sandels

On our third day we transformed ourselves into tourists once again with a boat tour to the enchanting and surreal floating islands in Lake Titicaca.  The reed islands are hand-made by the local people using the reeds that grow in the lake 1-4 meters a month. 
 
"Originally built to escape the tyranny of the Incas, the people used the roots of the reeds growing in the shallows of the lake and created floating platforms on which to build their homes. The base is made from the dense root system of the weeds and then anchored down by heavy stones. They then create a ground cover of reeds and then build their homes on top. There are about three families living on each island and there are apparently 2000 people living in communities across the lake."
 even the pigs have "land" for grazing

The first thing we were taught on our boat cruise to the floating islands was how to say “hello, how are you?”………KAMISARAKI

Lake Titicaca is 165 kms long and 60 km wide, which is equivalent to 8300 square kilometers. It is 30 to 280m deep and the water rises 1m during rainy season. 
Floating islands 2000 population

Amantani island 4000 population

Tequile island 2000 population

However, these figures are disputable since they changed depending on who we asked, the guide and the people who lived on the islands.

Many rivers flow into the lake but only one flows out.  In the Andes Mountain range and at 12,000 feet elevation this lake is surely one of the highest lakes in the world.  60% of the lake belongs to Peru and 40% to Bolivia and the temperature is between 16-18 degrees Celsius, just ask JC & Tianna how cold that is since they both jumped in the lake, with cheers coming from the tourists on our boat, before we left the island.

They also use the reeds for food, eating the white part, and build their huts they live in and the boats too.  The primary children boat to school, also built on an island however the secondary students must boat to Puno for their education.  We docked on one island and were immediately greeted by the locals dressed in their traditional long, colorful skirts and hats.  We were given an explanation on how the islands are built and were invited into their huts to see all their beautifully hand-made crafts. 

  

                         Tianna dressed as a beautiful Peruvian Girl

 Not sure if we could live on such a small island but it was fun pretending for awhile!

                    Dad & Tianna took a cruise on a 'Reed' Boat                  

Arriving on Amantani Island was like stepping back in time.  Met by traditionally dressed women one would think this was just for the tourists but having spent the night on the island with these local people you soon realize that this is their life, they're proud of their traditions and it's not for show!

Winding our way on a small cobblestone paths across the island we passed herds of sheep & llamas, fields of corn, potatoes and a variety of vegetables growing in rich soil.  Following our hostess who amazed us by spinning wool while walking along, all the women carry a wooden spindle to spin their 2 string wool into one.  

Our lunch of soup and several types of potatoes was delicious and for dinner we were served soup and stir-fry with egg and rice. After lunch we walked to the Plaza and then came across a group of boys we challenged to a game of soccer.  The Canadians (4 of us) dominated for the first 30 min. despite the burning in our chest due to the altitude.  Team Peru made a come back in the second half to tie it up but the last goal was scored by one of our pick up players from the island.

Falling asleep under wool blankets that weighed at least 40lbs. kept us warm and the candle burning in our room made it cozy!  With no heat, electricity or even running water it is amazing what the island women can accomplish.  

 
In the morning we were happy to be treated to wonderful crepes and marmalada with Coca tea of course!!  When we left Amantani for Taquile Island it was raining and the sky was dark but God blessed us once again when the rain stopped and the sun came out just as we began the hike up the mountainside.  

Our group made their way to the Plaza for a brief stop before heading off to the other side where we ate lunch with a beautiful view of Lake Titicaca, which surprisingly resembles Okanagan Lake.  

Terraced farming

At lunch we learned that only the men knit on this particular island and the women don’t.  They are taught to knit at 5yrs. old and cannot get married until they’ve knitted themselves a colorful hat.  The girls collect all their hair from when they are very young and until they get married then weave their hair into a wide belt (like a cummerbund) for their husband.  

They don’t exchange rings like in North America.  At parties or dances the pom pom on top of the men’s knitted hat(touque) is worn straight back if they are married and to the side if they are looking for a wife.  Couples live together for approx. 1 year before getting married because once you’re married it’s for life.  The wedding ceremony lasts 3 days with the first day at the Plaza but they don’t dance and instead wear layers of blankets, the second day the couple receive gifts and the third day they dance around the plaza.  We were all amazed that although these islands do have a mayor (on mayor for all the islands) they do not have any law enforcement, it’s not needed!!!!   Oh and there are no dogs either.

A very enjoyable 3hr. cruise back to Puno on top of the boat with our new friends Katie & Jon from London and Mikolaj & Emilia from Poland.  We were all enjoying the heat from the sun and great conversation!  

Landon was happy to be captain of the boat for a while but wished it could’ve travelled faster than one speed… slow.  Later that evening we met up with our friends near the Plaza for great pizza & beer and with 4 countries represented, Canada, England, Poland and Spain very interesting topics were covered and it’s moments like this that make travelling priceless!