Puno, Peru (elevation 12,000 ft.)

Puno and the Islands of Lake Titicaca

Well we are becoming very familiar with night buses, I even slept a little this time.  Arriving at 5:00am in Puno which sits on the northern shores of Lake Titicaca and surrounded by the Andes Mountains we were met by Ronal, the Olimpo Hotel owner.  The hospitality of the Peruvian's is remarkable, not only did he allow us into our room this early in the morning, he also brought us Coca Tea to drink. (This is the drink that assists with the effects of the elevation)  After resting for awhile we ventured out into the streets of Puno.  Busy, noisy, & crowded but better than some we've experienced.  I haven't decided whether Peru drivers are the worst because of all the close calls or the best because of all the close calls?!?

 the view from the roof of our hotel in Puno which borders on Lake Titicaca

Of course we made our way to the Plaza (every city big or small has a Plaza in Peru).   A lot more walking then rested in our hotel room watching TV for the first time in two and a half months.  After dinner JC attended his 3rd Rotary meeting.

                              

mostly all the women wear their hair with the traditional, long braids

The second day we were picked up by Rina's brother, sister in law and nephew to be driven out of the city along the shores of Lake Titicaca and passed little mud-brick villages until we stopped at a small community where we walked around and got close to an Alpaca.

 Rina & her family, our tour guides 

 sooooooo many potatoes

eggs are never refrigerated

     wearing the same 'rubber tire' sandels

On our third day we transformed ourselves into tourists once again with a boat tour to the enchanting and surreal floating islands in Lake Titicaca.  The reed islands are hand-made by the local people using the reeds that grow in the lake 1-4 meters a month. 
 
"Originally built to escape the tyranny of the Incas, the people used the roots of the reeds growing in the shallows of the lake and created floating platforms on which to build their homes. The base is made from the dense root system of the weeds and then anchored down by heavy stones. They then create a ground cover of reeds and then build their homes on top. There are about three families living on each island and there are apparently 2000 people living in communities across the lake."
 even the pigs have "land" for grazing

The first thing we were taught on our boat cruise to the floating islands was how to say “hello, how are you?”………KAMISARAKI

Lake Titicaca is 165 kms long and 60 km wide, which is equivalent to 8300 square kilometers. It is 30 to 280m deep and the water rises 1m during rainy season. 
Floating islands 2000 population

Amantani island 4000 population

Tequile island 2000 population

However, these figures are disputable since they changed depending on who we asked, the guide and the people who lived on the islands.

Many rivers flow into the lake but only one flows out.  In the Andes Mountain range and at 12,000 feet elevation this lake is surely one of the highest lakes in the world.  60% of the lake belongs to Peru and 40% to Bolivia and the temperature is between 16-18 degrees Celsius, just ask JC & Tianna how cold that is since they both jumped in the lake, with cheers coming from the tourists on our boat, before we left the island.

They also use the reeds for food, eating the white part, and build their huts they live in and the boats too.  The primary children boat to school, also built on an island however the secondary students must boat to Puno for their education.  We docked on one island and were immediately greeted by the locals dressed in their traditional long, colorful skirts and hats.  We were given an explanation on how the islands are built and were invited into their huts to see all their beautifully hand-made crafts. 

  

                         Tianna dressed as a beautiful Peruvian Girl

 Not sure if we could live on such a small island but it was fun pretending for awhile!

                    Dad & Tianna took a cruise on a 'Reed' Boat                  

Arriving on Amantani Island was like stepping back in time.  Met by traditionally dressed women one would think this was just for the tourists but having spent the night on the island with these local people you soon realize that this is their life, they're proud of their traditions and it's not for show!

Winding our way on a small cobblestone paths across the island we passed herds of sheep & llamas, fields of corn, potatoes and a variety of vegetables growing in rich soil.  Following our hostess who amazed us by spinning wool while walking along, all the women carry a wooden spindle to spin their 2 string wool into one.  

Our lunch of soup and several types of potatoes was delicious and for dinner we were served soup and stir-fry with egg and rice. After lunch we walked to the Plaza and then came across a group of boys we challenged to a game of soccer.  The Canadians (4 of us) dominated for the first 30 min. despite the burning in our chest due to the altitude.  Team Peru made a come back in the second half to tie it up but the last goal was scored by one of our pick up players from the island.

Falling asleep under wool blankets that weighed at least 40lbs. kept us warm and the candle burning in our room made it cozy!  With no heat, electricity or even running water it is amazing what the island women can accomplish.  

 
In the morning we were happy to be treated to wonderful crepes and marmalada with Coca tea of course!!  When we left Amantani for Taquile Island it was raining and the sky was dark but God blessed us once again when the rain stopped and the sun came out just as we began the hike up the mountainside.  

Our group made their way to the Plaza for a brief stop before heading off to the other side where we ate lunch with a beautiful view of Lake Titicaca, which surprisingly resembles Okanagan Lake.  

Terraced farming

At lunch we learned that only the men knit on this particular island and the women don’t.  They are taught to knit at 5yrs. old and cannot get married until they’ve knitted themselves a colorful hat.  The girls collect all their hair from when they are very young and until they get married then weave their hair into a wide belt (like a cummerbund) for their husband.  

They don’t exchange rings like in North America.  At parties or dances the pom pom on top of the men’s knitted hat(touque) is worn straight back if they are married and to the side if they are looking for a wife.  Couples live together for approx. 1 year before getting married because once you’re married it’s for life.  The wedding ceremony lasts 3 days with the first day at the Plaza but they don’t dance and instead wear layers of blankets, the second day the couple receive gifts and the third day they dance around the plaza.  We were all amazed that although these islands do have a mayor (on mayor for all the islands) they do not have any law enforcement, it’s not needed!!!!   Oh and there are no dogs either.

A very enjoyable 3hr. cruise back to Puno on top of the boat with our new friends Katie & Jon from London and Mikolaj & Emilia from Poland.  We were all enjoying the heat from the sun and great conversation!  

Landon was happy to be captain of the boat for a while but wished it could’ve travelled faster than one speed… slow.  Later that evening we met up with our friends near the Plaza for great pizza & beer and with 4 countries represented, Canada, England, Poland and Spain very interesting topics were covered and it’s moments like this that make travelling priceless!

Machu Picchu!

Saturday April 14

It was a very early morning since our bus to catch the train left at 6:45am.  Travelling through mountainous country the bus brought us to Ollantaytambo where after we feasted on french toast and granola/yogurt at the train station we boarded Peru Rail to complete the journey to Machu Picchu.  Such a scenic route it was hard not to snap a photo every 10 seconds!

  

Ramiro, his brothers and even the lady we purchased the bus/train ticket from all think we are crazy to want to spend 4 days at the base of Machu Picchu in the town called Aguas Calientes.  But we are so excited to get away from big cities and all the traffic!!  For a family who is not fond of large cities we sure have spent a lot of time in them.  

Tianna insists on wearing the biggest back pack!!

this is the town of Aguas Calientes (hot springs)
JC & Landon borrowed camping gear from Ramiro and will have some male bonding time while the girls will enjoy a mother/daughter date in the hostel, warm & dry:-)

Sun rising over Machu Picchu and the boys campsite 

Monday was the day we chose to climb Machu Picchu and the sun was shining down on us!  This might not seem like a big deal but it was considering that the other 3 days were raining!!  I had prayed for sunshine and God heard me and provided a perfect day.  Tianna & I woke early (all on our own, no wake up call) and after breakfast walked to Landon & JC's campsite.  JC made the decision to climb (literally) one of the other mountains close to their campsite instead of doing what all the tourist do when they come here.  

 WE MADE IT!!!!!!!!!!!

 Our hike up to Machu Picchu took about 45minutes straight up not zig zagging like the buses full of tourists did.  My initial thought upon arriving and seeing it for the first time was "Wow, it is a lot bigger than I expected".  We've seen so many pictures that I was worried that it wouldn't be an awe moment but it was.  
We were captivated by the stunning architecture!!!     

 

 
Calling it a city is a good description and I tried to imagine myself living here over 600 years ago. Primitive but very structurally sound built entirely of chiselled boulders that fit perfectly without cement and strategically placed which would impress any architect even of today.  Abandoned by the Incas when the Spanish invaded, Machu Picchu was not re-discovered until 1911.

Tianna & I had booked a climb to one of the mountain tops directly above the city but it took some time to find the entrance into Machu Picchu Montana (mountain).  See Tianna's Post for her experience and impression. 

Ok, so here is where your true character shines, my daughters is one of optimism and perseverance.  The path to the top of the mountain (which is the highest one, even higher than the more popular Waynapicchu on the opposite side) is made of stone steps, we never counted but I am guessing at 3050 m that there were about a million that zigzagged at a 45 degree angle.  
 this view is only half way up!
To be honest I would have likely turned back if it hadn't been for Tianna's constant encouragement.  She was ahead of me (of course) and would yell back "Mom, we're almost there, I can see the top"  this was after about 15 minutes and for the rest of the 1.5hrs. it took us to climb to the top.  JC contacted us on his walkie talkie to say he reached the summit of his mountain and seemed happy to have accomplished this goal of his own.  

We made it.......INCREDIBLE!!  The view was one that I will remember forever and sharing this moment with my daughter was a highlight not only of this trip but of my life.  

Once at the top we contacted Landon below on the walkie talkie to let him know about our accomplishment.  When we sat down to rest I said to Tianna, "you know you can do anything you want with your life" she replied "yeah I know, I want to be a photographer."  I was thinking more along the lines of an astronaut but oh well whatever she decides to do I know she will be successful and happy.  What amazed me was that from this height we had a perfect view of Machu Picchu below but could not see one tourist even though we knew there were a couple thousand of them walking around down there.  

After about 20 minutes at the top we headed back down......in half the time it took to go up!  Even Tianna's legs were shaking.  Waiting for us at the bottom was Landon who was ready to leave so he & Tianna boarded the bus back to Aguas Calientes.  JC met them and they all went for a smorgasbord.  

Compliments of Katherine (my new aussie friend)

"Machu Picchu dates back to 1400AD and sits in perfect harmony between mountain peaks at 2400m above sea level. It was 'discovered' in 1911 by an American explorer, Hiram Bingham, who was in search of the lost city of the Incas. Surrounded by mystery and still debated by archeologists and historians, it is truly deserving of being one of the 7 wonders of the world." 

I stayed for a couple more hours hiking through this ancient Inca city in the glorious sunshine, thanking God for answering my prayer with the weather and for arranging my birth in the 20th century:-)

 the kids even managed to fit in a bit of school work on our last day before leaving Aguas Calientes:-)